Everyone who knows me knows: I have something impressive sweet tooth. (trust: it is well documented.) Of course, this means the list of bakeries to visit and cookbooks for making bread is endless. So when I was planning my most recent trip to London, I made it a priority to eat everything I could buy at Claire Ptak’s East London bakery. violet.
In conclusion, I met and ate so many delicious sweets that it was well worth the trip. Claire experiments with flavors drawn from her California upbringing and elevates them with a true urban sensibility. Everything I’ve tried, from mango cupcakes to her famous egg yolk chocolate chip cookies, has forever changed the way I think about sweets. As soon as I got back to America, I opened Claire’s latest book. love is a pink cake, began to bake. And with summer approaching, I decided to incorporate fresh peaches into all my meals and treats, so I’ll start with her peach tarte tatin.
And just in case you hesitated even a little before jumping in, rest assured. Claire was a creative genius. Prince Harry and Meghan’s wedding cake. Keep reading for recipes, Claire’s tips for peeling peaches, and why this peach tarte tatin is the ultimate party trick.
How would you describe your cooking and food philosophy?
My philosophy is to bake for flavor first and foremost, and I want to keep the flavor very pure. Baking seasonal bread is something I’ve always done, and I encourage you to make the most of what’s in peak season. In almost all of my recipes, you can substitute seasonal fruit for whatever is mentioned in the recipe.
How did you develop this recipe?
Classically tarte tatin is made with apples. But when I tried a peach tarte tatin at a friend’s restaurant, it became my favorite type of tarte tatin. The peach leaf custard garnish may be difficult to come by, but if you can get fresh peach leaves, it’s well worth it. Almond flavor goes well with peach. It’s so fresh and rare!
What makes you love this recipe?
It’s a time consuming but really satisfying recipe. Also, the rendition of the overturned tart that appears large is very theatrical, and it is also something that pleases the audience. It’s a perfect dessert for summer. One of his ways to simplify this, if you prefer, is to use a very good store-bought pie crust.
Do you have any recommended kitchen tools to make this?
I always recommend buying spiders. This is a Chinese slotted spoon perfect for poaching peaches. Gently cup the peaches to perfection. It also goes well with custard flavoring using peach leaves.
Other essentials: A heavy-bottomed baking dish made of cast iron or copper. A thick-bottomed pot suitable for making custard and caramel. Heat-resistant rubber spatula, stand mixer, sharp whisk, sharp knife, offset spatula. With this you can do anything!
What are the standout ingredients that make this recipe so special?
Ripe fresh peaches in season, peach leaves if available, and a delicious homemade or store-bought buttery pie crust.
Can I exchange materials?
If it’s dairy-free, you can’t make custard, but you’ll serve it with dairy-free ice cream. You can use vegan butter and vegan pie crust for your tarts. It’s delicious when combined with vegan ice cream or berry sorbet!
Have a cooking hack you’d like to share?
To peel peaches, simply boil them briefly in water. If you want skinless peaches, this is a great technique for many recipes. Be sure to chill in ice water so the skin doesn’t come off easily and cook the peaches.
What advice would you give to someone intimidating about baking?
Enjoy the process! It takes time, but it’s worth the effort. Please read the instructions twice before you start. Before you start, make sure all your equipment and materials are ready. This recipe is all about timing!
What do you want people to feel when they make your recipe?
I really want people to think more like cooks when they bake bread. Desserts and baked goods are often too sweet, so this is to balance the flavors in the recipe. My role is to help people become more comfortable with baking seasonally, trust their instincts and improve their skills.
What other recipes in your book should I make first?
My Brown Sugar Victoria Sponge is the perfect primer for baking layer cakes. And I love all the cookies in the book, including the blonde peanut butter cookie and the vegan chocolate chip cookie.
What’s your favorite snack to try at Violet?
California cakes and of course cupcakes, especially seasonal fruit cupcakes. And the famous egg yolk chocolate chip cookie!
explanation
Sweet summer peach tarte tatin with peach leaf custard.
For custard:
- 3 egg yolk
- 480 grams single cream (2 cups)
- 2 tablespoons Granulated sugar
- 30–40 Wash and dry peach leaves (if leaves are not available, add a drop or two Add almond extract to the custard instead)
- a pinch of salt
For tarts:
- 8–Ten large ripe firm peaches
- 3 tablespoons Unsalted butter
- 135 grams Caster sugar (1/2 cup + 3 tablespoons)
- 500 grams (1 lb, 2 oz) puff pastry rolled into 12-inch circles and chilled
- make custard. Separate the yolks into a small bowl and save the egg whites (it freezes well!). Add the single cream and sugar to a heavy-bottomed saucepan and heat over medium heat until bubbling but not boiling. Take a handful of peach leaves and dip them into the steamed cream for about 30 seconds. Soak them, stir as you soak, remove and discard used leaves, then add a new handful. Repeat until all the leaves are used up and the cream is pale green. You have to work quickly to achieve the bright, fresh peach leaf flavor. Leaving the leaves in the custard for too long changes the flavor and is undesirable.
- Then temper the yolk with a few tablespoons of warm cream and whisk until smooth. Add the tempered yolks back into the remaining cream, continuing to run a heat-resistant spatula or wooden spoon along the bottom of the pan. Once the custard has set to the bottom of the pan, turn off the heat, add salt, stir, and pour the custard through a colander into a jug. Cool completely in the refrigerator.
- Next, blanch the peaches. Bring water to a boil in a large pot. Fill a large bowl with ice water and use a slotted spoon or small colander to remove the blanched peaches. Gently place the peaches into the boiling water (do not overfill the pot). Peaches can be peeled by simply submerging them in water for about 30 seconds. Pull one side out of the water and pinch the skin to see if it’s about to slide off. If the skin is still attached to the peach pulp, submerge the skin for a few more seconds. If the skin comes off, gently add it to a bowl of ice water. Continue until all the peaches are blanched, then remove them from the water bath and peel them off. Cut peaches in half, remove stones, and cut into quarters. Set aside on a plate. Don’t worry, the oxidation will disappear after baking.
- Preheat oven to 425°F. Get a 10-inch cast-iron skillet or a bowl of ice water big enough to fit a copper ruby mold. (Or you can place it in your kitchen sink).
- 4. Heat 2 tbsp butter and 6 tbsp sugar over high heat, stirring occasionally to caramelize. Once the sugar has dissolved, use a wooden spoon or balloon whisk to mix everything together. Even if it cracks or crystallizes, it will remelt during firing, so don’t worry. You want a deep, dark caramel. Remove from heat and immediately place pan in ice water to prevent caramel from further coloring.
- Arrange the peaches in the caramel pan. When completed, it will be upside down, so be careful to make it look clean. Place the bent side down into the caramel, core side up. Place the second layer of peaches on top, core-side down, and press lightly with your hands to fit them together like a puzzle.
- Roll up chilled puff pastry to cover, tuck edge between peach and mold, melt remaining 1 tablespoon butter, and brush into puff pastry. Sprinkle with the remaining 3 tablespoons of sugar and poke a few holes with a knife to allow steam to escape during baking.
- Bake the tarte tatin for 45 to 55 minutes or until the pastry is crisp and golden, the sugar has started to caramelize on top, and the peaches and caramel underneath are bubbling around the edges.
- Remove the tarts from the oven and let them sit for 10 minutes. Prepare a plate large enough to cover the top of the tarte tatin. Carefully place the plate over the mold and use an oven glove or a tea towel wrapped around the outside to quickly flip the mold over and roll the tart in a smooth motion, being careful of hot liquids and steam. Place on a plate. it may escape. Serve with cold peach leaf custard.
Note
The final step is so much fun to do at the table that I love making the custard and getting the tart ready right down to the final stage of tucking it into the pie crust and chilling it in the fridge until I’m at the dinner table. After that, put it in the oven while you eat. This way, you can serve the food on your plate in front of your guests.
- Preparation time: All night
- Cooking time: 1 hour
- Category: dessert
keyword: peach, tarte tatin
Excerpt from “Love is a Pink Cake” by Claire Ptak. Copyright 2023 Claire Ptak.
